How to Read a Real Banarasi

A genuine handloom Banarasi tells its story on the reverse. Turn the saree over: you should see floats of zari and silk running loose between motifs, cut by hand. A powerloom copy is neat on both faces because the machine trims as it weaves.

Next, weigh it in your palm. Pure Katan silk has a cool, heavy fall — it drapes rather than floats. Blended art silk feels warm and springs back when you crush it.

Real zari is a silk thread wrapped in silver and gilded with gold. Under a loupe you can see the wrap. Tested zari will never flake; imitation zari sheds a copper dust when rubbed between fingers.

Finally, ask for the weaver. Every saree in the TREATYOU 2 archive carries the name of the loom it came from, the district it was woven in, and the number of days it took.